Thursday, 30 September 2010

Mischa Maisky's Masterclass @ YST Conservatory

A to Z from MM
MISCHA MAISKY Masterclass
Yong Siew Toh Conservatory Concert Hall
Wednesday (29 September 2010)


A sizeable audience turned up at the Conservatory for a cello masterclass by the Latvian-born Mischa Maisky, and for two and a half hours, were entertained by his ideas and thoughts. It was emphatically not a didactic or pedagogical session where two young players were put through the motion on their instruments and their flaws clinically corrected. Instead, it was more like a conversation with a long-lost uncle from some distant land who regales with tales of legends and escapades.

Maisky speaks English very well (his first wife was American, “Nobody’s perfect” he conceded) and expressed his thoughts very clearly and with much humour. He talks too much, he admitted, but that was the reason why people turned up in the first place. Here are some of his random thoughts:

Authenticity is expressed in the emotions, rather than playing in a dogmatic way. If music comes from the heart, it is authentic.

Bach’s music may be interpreted in many different ways. Trying to second-guess what he did during his lifetime is futile as we are living in our time. To refer to him as a Baroque composer is insulting, as his visions are is beyond time and place. He only lived during the period of Baroque music. To say he played Bach romantically would be a compliment, because all music is romantic (quoting Horowitz). About playing Bach without vibrato, his retort is “20 children, but no vibrato???”

Casals heard him play in 1973 just two months before his death. He said something like, “Young man… what you have played has nothing to do with Bach. However you seemed to be so convinced, so it sounds convincing.”
MM demonstrates a point on
YST student Lu Bingxia's cello.

Danger today is for young musicians to strive for the wrong priorities, to practise to perfection in order to use music to show off oneself. Great musicians love and respect music, and their audience more than themselves.

Expression is paramount, and that is conveyed through colours and intensity in the music. Music is led by a pulse and heartbeat, but that varies and has flexibility, not like a metronome. The level of communication separates a great artist from merely a good musician.

Formula: 2 + 2 = 4, sometimes 4.5 or even 5, but never 7. Although music is free for personal expression, it should never be exaggerated. Play what is written in the score, but do read in between the lines.

Great music scares him to death. Sometimes that is why some pieces are not performed as often as he likes.

Hearing his own playing once shocked him. He was in an audio shop when he heard a Bach gavotte played like a caricature of himself. But that was him! This prompted a second recording on Deutsche Grammophon of the Bach Cello Suites. Nothing in life is repeated, and a different attitude should be adopted when doing something for the second time.

I am the luckiest cellist in the world!” having studied with Mstislav Rostropovich and Gregor Piatigorsky.

Joy. If there is neither joy nor passion expressed in music, then you ask “Why?” and “What for?”

Klemperer’s joke, on the question of interpreting Bach. Once one singer said, “I dreamt about Bach, and he told me that was how it is performed.” Maestro Otto’s reply, “I dreamt that I saw Bach, and he said he did not know who you were!” Or something to that effect.

Love is all you need (quoting a Beatles song). Strangely or not so strangely, Murray Perahia also said the same thing at his YST masterclass.
Wu Daidai plays Brahms for MM.

Masterclasses are for students who are already masters. Here you learn to become artists, by transforming mere good playing into something else.

Nobody needs a copy of Rostropovich, or a copy of Maisky for that matter. Everyone is unique, and there are thousands of different ways to do the same thing. So develop your own identity.

Ordinary people
. He does not play for connoisseurs, but for ordinary people who want to be touched by music.

Practise music all the time, with your mind if not with your instrument. Always have a clear idea of what you want to achieve. The end result is what that matters most, how to get there is irrelevant.

A final thought: The greatest teacher is one who helps students to become their own teachers.

Mischa Maisky has the most generous autograph of them all. He joked, "When people want more than one autograph of mine, its probably because they want to exchange three Maiskys for one Yo-Yo Ma!"

Tuesday, 28 September 2010

An Excellent Piano CD You May Not Have Heard About: BUSONI The Visionary II / Review



FERRUCCIO BUSONI
The Six Sonatinas
Organ Toccata in C major, 
BWV.564 (J.S. Bach)
JENI SLOTCHIVER, piano
Centaur CRC 2681

Here is a review which I wrote several years ago for the pages of The Flying Inkpot. It's an excellent CD, so go check it out...


If there were a special prize for musical understatement of the 20th century, it ought to be awarded to the six Sonatinas of Italian composer-pianist Ferruccio Busoni (1866-1924). Rivaling Brahms’ a “few little pieces with a wisp of a scherzo” which Brahms described his Second Piano Concerto (the 19th century’s outright winner), these 50 minutes or so of the most intriguing piano music to be heard since Beethoven’s late Sonatas are a far cry from Schirmer’s Sonatina Album, beloved of budding young pianists.

The six single-movement essays were so named to differentiate them from Busoni’s very own Sonata in F minor, a 30-minute work. The heterogeneity of the Sonatinas themselves makes them extraordinary, endlessly interesting works. With the famous exception of the Sixth Sonatina (the Chamber Fantasy after Carmen), they are virtually neglected. That is probably because only Busoni specialists play and record them as a group. Busoni specialists virtuoso pianists to be certain – are not born, but like apostles of the faith, anointed.

I do not know whether Busoni’s Apostle Peter, the Dutch master Egon Petri has recorded the entire set but I have been more than satisfied being proselytised by the late-lamented Paul Jacobs, whose definitive recording on Nonesuch has recently been reissued on the Arbiter label. His performances allied a razor-keen intellect, fearless virtuosity with missionary zeal; I was converted almost immediately. Now meet Jeni Slotchiver, an American pianist whose name is totally new to me, who carries on the tradition with the same persuasive powers.

First off, some thumbnail intros to the Sonatinas. The first two Sonatinas look forward to the creations of Schoenberg, and to these ears, the most interesting. The First Sonatina is a phantasmagorical composite of three earlier pieces from Busoni’s An die Jugend, a suite that is anything but childlike. The Second Sonatina is the most modern, almost (but not) atonal, violent in intent, and bristling with rhythmic and harmonic complexities. The Third Sonatina has the suffix for the use of a child; it is childlike and naïve in its feel (like characters of a puppet play) but certainly not child’s play.

The Fourth Sonatina, another harmonically intriguing piece, was written for Christmas 1917, a plea for the end of the Great War. The Fifth Sonatina is a free transcription of Bach’s Fantasia and Fugue BWV.905, in the best tradition of hyphenated Bach. Finally, the Sixth Sonatina or Carmen Fantasy is a showstopper in the Lisztian mould, employing popular melodies from Bizet’s opera, most importantly the death theme, Flower Song and Habañera. Unsurprisingly, recordings of the Carmen Fantasy by far outnumber those of the other Sonatinas.

What of the performances? Jeni Slotchiver (left) is armed with an iron-clad technique that quite comfortably surmounts the very stiff challenges presented by the composer. The Sonatinas do not sound like technical nor intellectual exercises, rather mini-fantasies that she colours with a wealth of responses and insights. I particularly appreciated the haunting and mystical atmosphere she recreates in the First and Fourth Sonatinas, pieces which could have easily degenerated into a laborious play-through. The visionary Second Sonatina could have done with more venom in its bite and there have been more outwardly virtuosic readings of the Carmen Fantasy (notably by John Ogdon and Marc-André Hamelin). These minor quibbles aside, the performances are nothing short of satisfying. In summary, she is every bit the equal of these masterful creations.

As a bonus, there is a fine performance of Busoni’s transcription of Bach’s Organ Toccata (Toccata, Adagio and Fugue) in C major BWV.564, the same work which Vladimir Horowitz played in his famous 1965 Carnegie Hall recital. There is a sense of strain and struggle in the mighty Toccata but that is more than made up by the wonderfully serene Aria and jaunty high spirits of the Fugue. Good as this reading may be, those by Horowitz (Sony Classical) and Nikolai Demidenko (Hyperion) still deserve a special place in any collection.

What should also not go ignored are the very detailed and well-researched notes for the programme that gives the listener a complete historical background to the music. No other recording (not even the now-deleted Geoffrey Douglas Madge’s 6-disc box set on Philips) is as exhaustive in its coverage. Count yourself a minor authority on Busoni (at least in your office building or neighbourhood) after reading the booklet, but first enjoy the music!

CD Review (The Straits Times, September 2010)


SUMMER NIGHT CONCERT
SCHÖNBRUNN 2010
Vienna Philharmonic / FRANZ WELSER-MÖST
Deutsche Grammophon 476 3793
****1/2

This year’s Vienna Summer Night Concert under the stars had a decidedly celestial twist. The theme of Moon/Planet/Stars necessitated inclusion of music from John Williams’ film score for Star Wars. The iconic Main Title, Princess Leia’s Theme and Imperial March posed little problem for the orchestra better known for the classics and Johann Strauss. They performed those numbers as if they were Wagner, the March being the perfect counterpart to Holst’s Mars, The Bringer Of War from The Planets. Also in the heavenly realm were Josef Strauss’s (the younger brother of Johann the Younger) Music Of The Spheres, Joseph Lanner’s Evening Stars and Otto Nicolai’s Moonrise from The Merry Wives Of Windsor, all receiving plum readings.

A somewhat more earthbound choice was Franz Liszt’s Second Piano Concerto, performed with gusto and brilliance by Yefim Bronfman, who gamely included an encore in Liszt’s flashy Paganini Étude No.2. Strauss’ nostalgic Winer Blut (Vienna Blood) completed the evening’s fare. The DVD adds a few more encores, vistas of Vienna by night, shots from the Hubble telescope, and plenty of superfluous crowd scenes. Take your pick.

Thursday, 23 September 2010

SINGAPORE CHINESE ORCHESTRA IN PARIS / Sneak Preview / Review

SCO IN PARIS A Sneak Preview
Singapore Chinese Orchestra
Tsung Yeh, Conductor
SCO Concert Hall
Wednesday (22 September 2010)


Parisians will get a taste of Singapore when the Singapore Chinese Orchestra performs at the Musée du Quai Branly on two evenings in October, part of the Singapour Festivarts exchange programme between the two nations. But what will they get to hear? Singaporean music, Chinese music or Asian music?

The one-hour programme devised for 25 instrumentalists by SCO Music Director Yeh Tsung was an excellent showcase of the orchestra’s virtuosity, and had a little bit of everything. It was however unfortunate that no Singaporean composers were represented. The Nanyang segment (incorporating music of Indo-Malayan flavour) came from the Malaysian composer Yii Kah Hoe’s Buka Panggang, his musical vision of an overture to a wayang kulit play.

The sheng’s piercing timbre and wails of the diyin suona opened this ten-minute tone poem that gradually expanded into a full-scale processional replete with kampung drumming. This was not Chinese music per se, for its essence lay somewhere lying far south, much nearer the equator. But could it pass off as Singaporean? Perhaps so, if we were not so busy sacrificing our heritage for modern trappings, IRs, Formula One and their like.

The middle two numbers were chamber music. Xing Jie (Strolling Down The Street), a Jiangnan melody played by seven players was the most traditional and recognisably Chinese work. Not so, Hongkonger Chan Hing Yan’s Seven Images of the Moon scored for erhu, pipa, guzheng and percussion. A work where John Cage-like silences and pauses were as vital as the intimate instrumental sounds, its static and minimalist leanings provided an unusual and almost soporific contrast.
The strongest impression came from Extase by Paris-based Chinese composer Chen Qigang, Olivier Messiaen’s last student and better known as the Music Director for the 2008 Beijing Olympics. Guest soloist Jean-Louis Capezzali’s evocative oboe solo began the work, which rhapsodically swung from contemplative to wildly kinetic, as its title implied. Fragments of an Oriental theme emerged, gradually coalescing into something discernibly Chinese as the Frenchman’s fiendish riffs tore through the collage of raucous sound for an energetic finish.

This was not the usual fare served up at subscription concerts, but for a French audience more familiar with Ensemble Intercontemporain and Boulez musings, the Singapore Chinese Orchestra will be more than well received. In fact, it stakes a claim at the vanguard of music’s cutting edge.

Tuesday, 21 September 2010

Farewell to MARICAN, A Victoria Concert Hall legend

I earlier wrote about the enforced retirement of Ansari bin Hamid Marican, or MARICAN as everybody knows him, due to the closure of Victoria Concert Hall. For several decades, he was the stage manager of Singapore's friendliest concert venue, and true friend to everybody who performed there. Here is an interview I did with him way back in 2001, published in the October 2001 issue of BraviSSimO! With his retirement sees a farewell to one of Singapore's nicest iconic characters in its musical scene. He will truly be missed.

(Click on image to enlarge)

10 YEARS YOUNG! / The Chamber Players / Review

10 YEARS YOUNG!
The Chamber Players
Yong Siew Toh Conservatory Concert Hall
Sunday (19 September 2010)


This review was published in The Straits Times on 21 September 2010.

Like a woman who understates her real age, The Chamber Players (TCP), a mostly-amateur ensemble actually dating back to the early 1980s, celebrated its 10th anniversary with a stirring concert. Its present incarnation, brainchild of engineer, lecturer and French horn player Mervin Beng, is an outfit that instills serious fun in music-making despite having lofty ambitions.

Czech composer Josef Suk’s Serenade for Strings is a rarely-heard work long championed by this group. Its ingratiatingly melodies, like the Serenade of his father-in-law Dvorak, benefited from the warm, lush timbre produced by the Players, and aided by the hall’s reverberant acoustics.

The gentle lilt, lament-like elegy and quicksilver flourishes in the ensuing movements were deftly handled, with the music’s spirit being chief beneficiary. Despite the odd raw edges, the ensemble showed it had definitely matured over the past decade.

A regular collaborator with TCP has been Malaysia-born pianist Dennis Lee (above). Conducting from the keyboard, he helmed a polished and sensitive performance of Beethoven’s sleek Second Piano Concerto in B flat major (Op.19). The earliest and most Mozartean of five numbered piano concertos, Lee balanced its light-footed countenance with nervous tension, keeping the music on a keen edge throughout.

The orchestra responded with gusto, supporting his every gesture and turn of phrase sympathetically. Never mind the raspberry at the Rondo’s end, it was the coming of minds in a laudable group effort that really counted.

As the first commissioned work by TCP, the World Premiere of Simple-X by Robert Casteels and Seah Huan Yuh could not have been more different. Simply it may be described as a concertante for piano, three iPads, electro-acoustics and strings. Casteels led this odd-looking ensemble from the piano, hammering out repeated chords and clusters, cueing 18 string players who crafted ostinatos of their own.

As Robert Casteels leads, T'ang Quartet's violist
Han Oh (extreme right) takes his turn on the iPad.
Seah Huan Yuh and his PC are in the foreground.

Groups of players would then leave their stands to fiddle with the iPads located forestage, conjuring a fairyland mélange of tingling tones. This sequence would go on until every player had done its bit, with Seah at his PC, controlling a variety of sound effects and white noise. Fantastical and dreamlike, whether deliberate or random, the work generated a warm response from an audience more accustomed to Mozart and Haydn.

Could new music be a new direction The Chamber Players are taking?

Monday, 20 September 2010

A Bridge of Silk: Asian A Cappella / The Philharmonic Chamber Choir / Review

A BRIDGE OF SILK: ASIAN A CAPPELLA
The Philharmonic Chamber Choir
Lim Yau, Conductor
Esplanade Recital Studio
Saturday (18 September 2010)


This review was published in The Straits Times on 20 September 2010.

When The Philharmonic Chamber Choir (TPCC) was formed in the mid-1990s, one of its missions was to explore the virgin world of Asian a cappella music. Every Asian culture has its own unique choral heritage, but for a Singaporean group with little local tradition to speak of, it was a novel direction to take.
And what a harvest it has reaped to judge by the quality this 35-member group has achieved. Much effort had been taken to research each work, including employing eight native coaches for seven spoken languages and dialects, from Balinese to Mongolian. The high quality of annotations and translations also spelt of this conviction.

It was the music that ultimately impressed. As expected, some pieces played on onomatopoeic sound effects, beginning with the traditional Balinese Janger, where the singers simulated gamelan orchestras and the Vietnamese folksong Hat Cheo Thuyen, replicating the sound of oars rowing a boat.
There were laughs aplenty for the Taiwanese (specifically Yilan) folksong Diu Diu Dang Ah, where railway noises and repetition of the Minnanese word for train “Huay Chia” jostled for attention. A lot of it sounded like Hokkien, and conductor Lim Yau went on to personally congratulate his handful of Ang Mohs (Westerners) in the choir for taking the trouble.

On a more lyrical side, Filipino Nitoy Gonzales’ love-song Usahay (Sometimes) luxuriated in lovely sentimental harmonies. The only song in English was from Singapore (where else?), with Bernard Tan’s setting of Lee Tzu Pheng’s Dreamescape II a euphonious nod to the English choral tradition.

There were three very different songs by the Japanese icon Toru Takemitsu (left). An arrangement of the familiar favourite Sakura dressed in unusual harmonies contrasted with the more commercial pop idiom of A Song of Circles and Triangles, but it was the contemplative All That The Man Left Behind When He Died that had the poignancy to move one to tears.

Two songs from the Korean Geonyong Lee completed a kaleidoscopic picture of the choir’s abilities. The four varied Songs Without Words exhibited a strong technical facility and Memilmuk Saryeo (Buckwheat Jelly for Sale) incorporating hawkers’ calls and percussion instruments closed with a lonesome tofu-seller’s chant from the wonderfully evocative bass Nicholas Loh.

Do not miss this class act’s next concert, whatever it may be singing.

SSO Concert: Ode to Ireland / Review

ODE TO IRELAND
Singapore Symphony Orchestra
Esplanade Concert Hall
Friday (17 September 2010)


This review was published in The Straits Times on 2o September 2010.

What on earth has Ireland to do with a concert of American and Russian music?

The extremely tenuous link was provided by Christopher Rouse’s Flute Concerto of 1993, which has movements that conjured up thoughts of lively jigs and Emerald Isle idylls (composer pictured below). That the first and fifth movements are titled Amhran, the Gaelic word for “song”, was also a clue. The flautist on the evening was not James Galway, but the American Mark Sparks, who has every reason to lay claim on Irish authenticity.

In the opening and closing soliloquies, he crafted such a creamy and gorgeous tone, one that oozed lyricism from every pore, accompanied by warm burnished strings. The palindromic nature of the work ensured that there were lots more besides. Dissonances and grotesqueries in the 2nd movement’s Alla Marcia and 4th movement’s Scherzo were overcome with an enviable nimbleness and athleticism.

Which left the glorious centerpiece, an elegy that juxtaposed a grand chorale with an anguished and violent twist, essentially a requiem to an innocent victim of a senseless murder. That the horrific act took place in Liverpool, the English city with strong Irish connections, could be another connection.

The purely orchestral works in the concert received marvelous performances. Bernstein’s Candide Overture bristled with sharp wit and hairpin reflexes while Rachmaninov’s tone poem Isle of the Dead brooded and meandered on its fatal journey down the River Styx. The feverish climax, whipped to an ecstatic frenzy by Music Director Shui Lan was well worth the wait.

The crowd-pleaser was probably Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture in its rarely performed version with chorus, and the sight of 120 singers in the gallery was an imposing sight. If only they sung as immaculately as they looked. The opening hymn Save Us, O Lord was almost taken literally; the unaccompanied entries were a mess, but the chorus did eventually settle.

And the musical Battle of Borodino (left) ensued in earnest, with La Marseillaise eventually trumped by God Save The Tsar. And when one expected the resounding roar of cannons (or at least an over-enthusiastic bass drum) in the height of struggle, dull thuds of the hammer (leftover from Mahler’s Sixth Symphony) were heard instead. It was a touch underwhelming for such a stirring conclusion but the audience loved it anyhow. Maybe 1812 is not performed often enough in these parts.

Sunday, 19 September 2010

CD Reviews (The Straits Times, September 2010)

BEETHOVEN Piano Sonatas
STEVEN OSBORNE, Piano
Hyperion 67662
****1/2

Does the world need yet another Beethoven piano sonata recording? The simple answer: there are people who have yet to hear a note by the great German master. To this end, British pianist Steven Osborne gives a vividly energetic introduction to his popular “nicknamed” piano sonatas. Quasi una fantasia (Like a fantasy) is the description of the familiar “Moonlight” Sonata (Op.27 No.2). Rarely had any work breached convention to encompass wild extremes, ambling from quiet solace (the famous opening slow movement), through a charming country dance to untamed fury in the Presto Agitato finale.

Osborne spares the listener the “Appassionata”, opting instead for the “Pathetique” (Op.13) and “Waldstein” (Op.53) Sonatas, showing he is fully attuned to Beethoven’s idea of con brio. The finale of the latter reveals yet more steel and silk, the glissandi never sounding this smooth. The jocular little G major Sonata (Op.79) completes the picture. Beethoven’s ingenuity and multifarious genius has been more than well served.

SHARON BEZALY
plays BACRI, BERNSTEIN, DEAN & ROUSE
BIS 1799
****1/2

The highly mellifluous, liquid and nimble qualities of the flute make it eminently suited for lyrical and virtuosic showpieces, especially in contemporary music. This anthology of four concertante flute works is ample proof. The major work here is the 5-movement Flute Concerto by American Christopher Rouse (born 1949), a tribute to music cultures of the British Isles and a salve for the senseless killing of UK toddler James Bulger in 1993. The spirit of Irish and Scottish dances inhabit the faster movements, while a grand chorale and meditative slow finale provide closure for the violence that came before.

Leonard Bernstein’s Halil (Hebrew for “flute”) from 1981 is the best known piece, a nocturne with accompanying alto flute and piccolo parts, enlivened by Lenny’s typical penchant for colour and rhythm. Frenchman Nicolas Bacri’s engaging Flute Concerto (1999) and Australian Brett Dean’s The Siduri Dances complete this kaleidoscopic survey which sees young Israeli flautist Sharon Bezaly, partnered by four different orchestras, at her most eloquent and exuberant.

MOZART Symphonies No.39 & 40
Freiberg Baroque Orchestra
RENÉ JACOBS
Harmonia Mundi 901959
*****

Lovers of the big orchestral sound, awash with romantic gestures and fulsome vibrato, may look away now. More groups of the “authentic” persuasion and period instrument movement are dictating the way modern listeners perceive of the classical composers and their music. Is it a good or bad thing? Bands of Mozart and Haydn’s day were small and dynamic ensembles, a far cry from the sixty to eighty musicians of modern orchestras. The lack of vibrato is debatable, and the overall sound is that of leanness and lithe clarity, as opposed to opulence.

Hearing these recordings of familiar symphonies, Mozart’s spirit of invention and infectious humour are well served. Expositions and climaxes are never overstated, while dance movements come through with vivacity and grace. With repeats observed, the symphonies are heard in their entirety, never sounding repetitious nor ponderous. Try it, one might become hooked.

Wednesday, 15 September 2010

WAT'S THE BIG DEAL ABOUT SUKHOTHAI?

The ancient city of Sukhothai, Thailand's first capital, is a four-and-a-half hour ride south of Chiang Mai. Despite a long road trip from 6.30 am to 10.30om, it was worth every minute of the visit. If just to wander among its ruins, and ponder on the great civilisation that came and went...

Panorama of Wat Mahathat, Sukhothai's most important temple.

Viharn (assembly hall) of Wat Mahathat
with lotus-bud domed chedi in the background.

The central chedi complex and
standing Buddha at Wat Mahathat

Sitting Buddha at Wat Mahathat
Another vista of Wat Mahathat
Standing Buddha and north madapa
at Wat Mahathat

Wat Si Sawai with its
three Khmer-inspired prangs.

Detail of Wat Si Sawai

Walking Buddha at Wat Sa Sri
Sitting Buddha and chedi
at Wat Sa Sri

Brick chedi at Wat Phra Phai Luang

Single-standing prang
at Wat Phra Phai Luang

The mandapa housing a sitting Buddha
at Wat Si Chum, one of Sukhothai's
most photographed spots.

Serenity at Wat Si Chum

The massive standing Buddha
at Wat Saphan Hin The hilltop standing Buddha at Wat Saphan Hin
has a commanding view of Sukhothai.

Tuesday, 14 September 2010

WAT'S THE BIG DEAL ABOUT CHIANG MAI?

Everybody who visits Chiang Mai gets bussed to the temple of Doi Suthep.But there's lots more worthwhile wats to visit in Thailand's old northern capital. There are over a thousand temples here, but time only permitted us to visit six of the best.

Wat Phra Singh is probably
the temple one should not miss.

Wat Phra Singh's classical
example of Lanna architecture.

The raised library
of Wat Phra Singh.

Wat Chedi Luang is famous
for its ruined massive chedi.

Reclining Buddha at Wat Chedi Luang.

Wat Chiang Man is
Chiang Mai's oldest temple.
The chedi of Wat Chiang Man.

Panorama of Wat Suan Dok,
outside of the Chaing Mai city wall.

Reliquaries of past kings
at Wat Suan Dok.

The anorexic monk of
Wat Umong, a forested temple.

Panorama of Wat Ched Yot,
famed for its unusual 7-spired chedi.

The grounds of Wat Ched Yot.