Still on Kuching, Sarawak. We know there is no SSO in Kuching, and its semi-professional symphony orchestra performs only occasionally. Just not this weekend. So, there's lots of time for tourists like ourselves to go makan and then complete our ten thousand steps for the day. Kuching is not just a city, but one teeming with life as we found out during our evening walks. Here are some photos for the album, with fond memories till the next time we come.
And here's more, outside Jak Ma'an
The lights come on at the Marian Lodge
Cat Statue Square & Hornbill mural near Main Bazaar Road
The Harmony Arch and Siang Ti Temple at the head of Carpenter Street
The Round House, near the Old Court House and a familiar mascot of Kuching
Everyone comes out for the evening light and fountain show at the Kuching waterfront. With the backdrop of the State Assembly Building and Darul Hana Bridge, this is one of the highlights of Kuching evenings. Every night at 8.30 pm and 9.30 pm, the lights, illuminations and fountains go on. On Fridays and Saturdays, an additional 10.30 pm show is a certainty. Not quite Beethoven's Ninth, but still impressive enough!
Even after the light show is over, the Darul Hana Bridge still looks spectacular
The kids come out to play
Spots for a little night music, on China Street and Jak Ma'an Restaurant
The famous cat family statue in downtown Kuching, Sarawak.
Kuching, Sarawak is probably the only city in the world named after the cat. The cat, naturally, is its official mascot. Somehow, we never saw that many cats, unlike in Georgetown (Penang) or Bangkok. There are very few stray cats to be found. Instead, many are well looked after, and accompany their human companions in their shops or workplaces. Here are a few cats we managed to see in our short trip.
No, we did not visit the Cat Museum at Kuching's northern town hall. From we have learnt, it's full of kitsch besides being quite a long distance away from downtown Kuching. Downtown felines are what this page is all about!
What, me worry?
This florist shop on Wayang Street looks after nine former stray cats.
It's feeding time!
Nana is the guardian of Tai Tung Book Store on Ewe Hai Street.
The young mother cat at the Marian Boutique Lodging House
The little ginger who joined us for breakfast at Lau Ya Keng Food Court
He loves being rubbed behind the ears!
I bet you his name is Garfield.
Two more smart-looking felines at the florist on Wayang Street
Wonder what genuine Sarawakian food tastes like?Jak Ma'an is a relatively new restaurant that specialises in Bidayuh (Land Dayak) cuisine, essentially the jungle food of indigenous people of Sarawak. Opened by Dutch YouTuber Nick Jansen and his local Bidayuh wife Magdalene, Jak Ma'an celebrates its 2nd anniversary this weekend. It's also the most happening place on Ewe Hai Street / Carpenter Street during the evenings.
Live music by Steve Goh, celebrating Jak Ma'an's 2nd anniversary.
The first evening was so crowded that we had to make a reservation for the next evening, and it was well worth the wait. The dishes were served in boat-shaped receptacles made of leaves and presumably biodegradable. We were particularly delighted by the midin dish cooked in garlic, comprising jungle fiddlehead fern, probably the most unmistakable of Sarawakian dishes. It was simply delicious, not just fulfilling Janet's plaint of "Where are the greens?"
Midin, edible jungle fiddlestick fern.
Ayam Pansuh, chicken cooked in bamboo
Lamb in black pepper sauce
The Bidayuh feast was completed with Jak Ma'an fried rice
We have yet to try the ultimate jungle cuisine, ulat sagu (jungle grubs). Perhaps the next time, if ever! And by chance, we got to meet Nick and Magdalene the next afternoon, and we have him to thank for introducing us to all things Sarawak!
Kuching's Carpenter Street, which continues onto Ewe Hai Street
Believe it or not, Pianomania goes to Kuching, Sarawak! No, we are not attending concerts here but to sample legendary Kuching cuisine. Kuching is almost at the same latitude as Singapore, and it's only an hour's plane flight away. The late celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain hailed Kuching's "Breakfast of the Gods", and there are more than many places - mostly simple coffee shops - where such dishes can be enjoyed. Ewe Hai Street and Carpenter Street in the old town centre has a collection of coffee shops and gentrified eating and drinking places.
Just within 24 hours, we managed to catch some of our new favourite dishes, many of which are variations of what we have in Singapore. Instead of wan tan mee, we have kolo mee, noodles with pork parts. The laksa is different here too, with a slightly sour twang to the lemak version we are used to. These are simply divine. The bad news is: we have to leave in two days' time!
Juat Siang Cafe at 34 Carpenter Street
One of few eating places still open after 3 pm
Sarawak laksa, large portion
Kolo mee, large portion
We were just plain hungry!
The next morning, Kim Joo at 73 Ewe Hai Street
A traditional kopitiam, many still exist in Kuching, not Singapore.
Mui Xin Laksa, at Lau Ya Keng Food Court 23 Carpenter Street
Seafood laksa, with all the trimmings!
Yes, that was the second breakfast of Good Friday!
This coffee shop has an opera stage in its premises!
Dr Chang Tou Liang is a Singaporean family physician in private practice. From 2004 to 2008 he was the Artistic Director of the Singapore International Piano Festival. He has also been the classical music reviewer of The Straits Times (Singapore's national daily) since 1997. He is married to Janet, has a son Shan Ming, and keeps a household of six rescued cats.
