Monday, 20 April 2026

SUKA MAKAN: THE WILLOW & OAK @ OUTRAM ROAD




We only learnt about this restaurant after going to Oak and Ember, its sister outlet in Loyang Crescent. Located more centrally in the Outram Road / Tiong Bahru precinct, this place - The Willow & Oak - is far more accessible, walking distance from the Outram and Havelock MRT stations. It's located on a row of shophouses which look as if they have been there for many decades, except that gentrification has made it look more hip.


What strike one immediately is its modern decor, with a wintry arboreal theme that makes it look expensive, but the menu proves otherwise. In fact, the prices are competitive and given the quality of the dishes, well worth coming again. Why are both restaurants named after trees? One will have to ask the proprietor about that!



The starters are varied and very tasty. We had the corn ribs, honey butter chicken wings and crispy pork belly burnt ends. Just excellent. The steaks were not available this Sunday lunch, so we settle for smoked beef brisket instead, while others had plain fish and chips.


Corn ribs
Honey butter chicken
Pork belly burnt ends,
far more delicious than the name suggests


The service was excellent, and we were regularly asked for our verdict on the dishes. Having only tried two of the mains, a repeat visit is mandatory before we can cast our feedback. That gives us more the reasons to return.

What do nuclear scientists eat?
Fission chips
Smoked beef brisket

And here are the desserts:


Chocolate tart

Mango cheesecake

Cornbread



THE WILLOW & OAK
259 Outram Road
Singapore 169056
Tel: 8594-9778

Sunday, 19 April 2026

SAYAKA SHOJI & MASAAKI SUZUKI / MOZART AND KALLIWODA / Singapore Symphony Orchestra / Review

 


SAYAKA SHOJI & MASAAKI SUZUKI
MOZART AND KALLIWODA
Singapore Symphony Orchestra
Victoria Concert Hall
Friday (17 April 2026)


Kalliwoda. Where have we heard the name before? Maybe not. In the Singapore context, the Singapore Symphony Orchestra performed Kalliwoda’s First Symphony at Esplanade on 29 April 2022 as the second half to Stephen Hough’s Mozart Piano Concerto No.21. The conductor on that evening was Fabio Biondi. Now we have two Kalliwoda symphonies in the same SSO concert, led by Masaaki Suzuki no less. Is this a Kalliwoda renaissance of some sort?



Jan Vaclav Kalivoda (1801-1866), or Johann Wenzel Kalliwoda in his Germanised name, was a Prague-born Bohemian composer, violinist and conductor who was a contemporary of Franz Schubert and Hector Berlioz. He plied his trade mostly in Donaueschingen in Germany’s Black Forest, at the headwaters of the Danube and long before the town became the world's centre of music’s avantgarde*. Kalliwoda can hardly be called avantgarde, as I noted his First Symphony, played for the first time in Asia, had similarities with Mendelssohn’s First Symphony, both composed in 1824.


This evening, the Fifth and Seventh Symphonies (dating from 1840 and 1841 respectively) were performed as Asian premieres, both in four movements and a solid half-hour each. Having spent a full hour with this Bohemian, I can conclude that the craftsmanship is top-notch, even the ideas were hardly the most original. The passion and commitment invested in both works by SSO and Suzuki made it worthwhile, as I can scarcely imagine another professional orchestra outside of Germany or Czechia playing better than this.



The First Symphony in B minor opened with brass fanfares, not unlike how Schumann’s First Symphony announces itself, with the introduction working itself into a Sturm und Drang allegro main section. The urgency displayed in the exposition and development was quite arresting. The music is very pleasant, much like what we enjoy in the symphonies of Schubert, Mendelssohn and Schumann, perhaps without the memorability. However repeated listening could change that. 


The Scherzo and “slow” movement (relatively speaking, marked Allegretto grazioso) are shorter, contrasting B minor and G major respectively. The final returned to the stormy and tempestuous, with a memorable Mendelssohnian second subject with possibilities and a more populist composer would have milked it for all its worth. Nevertheless, the symphony closed on a loud and exciting high, which was appreciated by all present.


The symphonies were separated by Mozart’s Fifth Violin Concerto in A major (K.219) with Japanese former prodigy Sayaka Shoji as soloist. For the ritornello, she played with the orchestra, as Mozart would have done himself, then emerging as a sweet and clear solo voice. Her free-spirited approach, regarding her role as a virtuoso, was established at the outset. Her intonation was not always perfect but never strayed to waywardness. The cadenza chosen was heavy duty, almost Romantic in intent, but before she could proceed further, one of her strings snapped. Exchanging violins with guest concertmaster Frank Stadler, she continued to blaze a path.


Oddly enough, the intonation issues soon evaporated for the aria-like slow movement, beautifully voiced, which included another tricky cadenza (no mishap this time). The Rondo finale, with its stomping Turkish janissary interlude, was gracefully hewn, with no resort to vulgarity or cheap tricks. The audience applauded her pluck, and she obliged with J.S.Bach’s Sarabande from Partita No.2 (BWV.1004) as a lovely encore.



Now to Kalliwoda’s Seventh Symphony in G minor. If anything, it makes for a more interesting and varied experience. The opening was dark and mysterious, with a low rumble provided by Christian Schioler’s timpani roll. It was like being in Carl Maria von Weber’s wolf glen territory, with a sense of expectation (perhaps dread) built up for the ensuing allegro, which constituted the longest movement of all. Its G minor theme was ripe for fugal treatment but that was not taken up. 


The Scherzo shot off tensely like in Beethoven’s Ninth, but that was not sustained. Its abrupt closing proved an anticlimax or sorts. The Marcia that followed with booming brass and timpani was Schumannesque, its vigour contasted by Ma Yue’s clarinet solo, and finally a fugue (!) from the strings, but that too did not last for much. The finale followed attacca, and there was much string prestidigitation to be appreciated as the symphony wound to a thrilling close.


Kalliwoda was enjoyable rather than illuminating, and the SSO made the best case for him under Suzuki’s direction. This was clearly a Hans Sorensen (former director of artistic planning) gambit, which could possibly result with a recorded cycle of the seven symphonies on BIS. On the evidence of three symphonies performed, SSO’s efforts will likely become the benchmark recording should that ever transpire.


* It must be noted that the Donaueschingen Festival was founded in 1921 by the wealthy Furstenberg family, whose ancestors had been the original employers of Kalliwoda.

There is just this one recording of 
Kalliwoda's Fifth and Seventh in the catalogue...

... and SSO is very likely to better it.

Saturday, 18 April 2026

TRAVERSING / Ding Yi Music Company / Review

 


TRAVERSING
Ding Yi Music Company
Victoria Concert Hall
Saturday (11 April 2026)

This review was published in The Straits Times on 13 April 2026 with the title "Eclectic programme allows musicians to shine in Ding Yi concert".


The title of Ding Yi Music Company’s first evening of its concert season had to do with eclecticism and transcending geographical and cultural boundaries. Led by its chief artistic mentor Tsung Yeh, who regularly helmed similar programmes with the Singapore Chinese Orchestra, the concert was greater than the sum of its parts.

Tsung Yeh is the Conductor Emeritus
of the Singapore Chinese Orchestra
Photo: Ding Yi Music Company

Opening was the world premiere of Su Xiao’s short tone poem Sing A Pura. Beginning quietly with an air of mystery, the dizi gently rose above the percussion’s rhythmic accompaniment. The lilting dance that came after summed up the Chinese composer’s impressions of the city-state – lively, urbane and somewhat exotic.


More substantial was New York-based Singaporean composer Koh Cheng Jin’s Tang - Moonlight Fragrance, a single-movement concerto for orchestra inspired by Tang poetry. Huang Hsu-Lei’s long and impassioned dizi solo set the mood of contemplation. The demanding obbligato piano part with Ning An initially began as part of the general ensemble but soon grew in stature as the work picked up in tempo and volume.


Replacing guzheng and yangqin for creating specific sound textures, the part also included scraping the insides of the Steinway grand. Its percussive effects and virtuoso figurations also fueled the ethnic dance as the music lurched to a vigorous and wild close.

Photo: Ding Yi Music Company

The most demanding solo of the evening was by Yvonne Tay, whose guzheng worked overtime in Tang Jian Ping’s concerto Goddess of the Luo River. In a variegated score of multiple scenes, she cast a spellbinding thrall, from the gentlest of plinks to sweeping swathes of sound that rose above the orchestral throng. She literally personified the work’s subject, a figure of feminine grace and fearless self-empowerment.


Photo: Ding Yi Music Company

After a first half which did not pander to popular tastes, the concert’s latter half was to be much lighter. Bohemian cellist-composer David Popper’s Hungarian Rhapsody Op.68, arranged by Jon Lin Chua, was the virtuoso vehicle for Ding Yi’s Uzbek cellist Bekhzod Oblayorov. If the music sounded familiar, that was because it used the same Magyar folk sources as a number of Franz Liszt’s Hungarian Rhapsodies. As with those florid piano fantasies, the cello was obliged to jump through many hoops for an enjoyable romp.


Eric Watson’s Celtic Knots, receiving its world premiere, was an engaging succession of Scottish, Irish and Welsh melodies. Given the modal nature of the songs, among them Suo Gan (heard in Steven Spielberg’s Empire of the Sun), these translated very well for Chinese instrumental treatment. And one has not lived without hearing the suona imitating bagpipes or Londonderry Air played on pipa.

Photo: Ding Yi Music Company

Closing the evening was the 1950s Chinese Socialist-Realist and populist Youth Piano Concerto, concocted by a committee of composers including Liu Shikun, Sun Yilin, Huang Xiaofei and Pan Yiming. Ning An returned as the brilliant soloist in three movements influenced by Russians Dmitri Kabalevsky and Sergei Rachmaninov but with Chinese characteristics. It was so well received that its final four minutes had to be encored.

Photo: Ding Yi Music Company

Friday, 17 April 2026

SUKA MAKAN: PORTERHAUS @ SERANGOON GARDEN WAY WITH ROSYTHIANS (CLASS OF 1977, SCHOOL I)




I spent just one year (Primary Six) at Rosyth School, however have become part of a small oldies but goodies reunion of its Class of 1977. Every few months, its members organise a makan session, trying different eating place that takes place just a short distance from the old school. Simply put, many still stay near where school was. This place was Porterhaus on Serangoon Garden Way.




On this occasion, four members drove up to Kukup and Pontian in Johore for a super makan seafood session, and returned to have dinner with the other four members who were less "mobile". I belong to the latter group. They even had a vote as to what cuisine to have, and Western won. So, we headed to a new steakhouse restaurant called Porterhaus, which is just seven months old.

The early non-Johore group comprised
Boon Mui (Clara), Bee Eng, Jeffrey and TL.

As the Johore contingent were still stuck in the Second Link, the rest of us placed our orders. The ladies shared a steak while the guys had a dish to their own. After an hour or so, the sojourners finally returned with photos of their seafood conquests in Pontian, the freshness of which cannot be over-emphasised. We enjoyed our steaks and listened in envy, so another trip up north is going to be organised.

I had a rib-eye steak with garlic sauce

The ever health-conscious Jeffrey 
opted for the red snapper and wine.
The ladies shared a tenderloin steak.

Anyway, Porterhaus is a very decent place to hang out. The selections are plentiful and reasonably priced. The portions generous, and the service excellent. Those who partook of the wine had no complaints. So now I know of a new choice for the Kent Ridge Fine Music and Steak Appreciation Club (No Vegans Admitted) to visit.   




The rest, Ser Lee, Andy, Chin Sun and Eng Hoe
finally arrived and ate more modestly,
after having truly stuffed themselves in Pontian. 


PORTERHAUS
82 Serangoon Garden Way
Singapore 555978
Tel: 9758-4514