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The east bank of Samosir Island, with steep verdant hills and churches! |
One of the chief reasons for visiting Lake Toba in North Sumatra, Indonesia is to visit the Toba-Batak villages that populate the volcanic lake and Samosir Island. It is a 45 minute boat ride from Parapat on the eastern shore of the lake to the island, a gigantic monolith right smack in the middle and with a land link to the western shore. I had wished we were given more time to explore this mysterious island, but all we had were two hours in the Batak town of Tomok. This is a village overcrowded with souvenir and craft shops, but it is more importantly the site of several royal tombs of the Toba Batak rulers. Here one also gets witness Toba-Bataks culture and how they lived.
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A jetty and memorial in Tomok. |
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A Toba-Batak longhouse, with its characteristic boat-shaped roof (some say it also resembles the horns of a buffalo, an animal that is common here). This building was purportedly the home of a Toba-Batak king, and the effigy standing in front is that of his son. Today, it is inhabited by a family, and the first thing one sees on peeking into its front door is a television set! |
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The tomb and stone sarcophagus of King Sidarbuta at the royal burial grounds in Tomok. |
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A recurrent icon in Toba-Batak culture is the gecko and four breasts (no kidding!), which are supposedly symbolic of the humble origins of mankind (hence a crawling creature) one that is nourished by the ample bosoms of nature in order to attain the stature of adulthood. On the right is a Toba-Batak totem pole, also located at the site of the royal burial ground. |
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Stone statues and icons, representing man in ancient animistic Toba-Batak culture. Nowadays, the Toba-Bataks are predominantly Christian. |
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A well-preserved Toba-Batak longhouse that is now the Toba-Batak Museum in Tomok. The facade of the longhouse is decorated with elaborate artwork, which bears certain similarities with Papua New Guinean, Australian aboriginal and Maori art. Notice the ever-present geckos and mammary glands.! |
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In truth, the Museum is little more than a glorified Toba-Batak art and craft shop. |
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The Protestant Church of Tomok has wonderful fengshui, set in between water and hills. |
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The steep hills that rise behind the village of Tomok is carved by several waterfalls. |
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A final look at the village of Tomok, which resembles some tranquil tropical paradise. |
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