BANGKOK'S BEST KEPT SECRET: THE THAILAND PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA

 

BANGKOK’S BEST KEPT SECRET: 

THE THAILAND 

PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA 

It is no secret that I have been visiting Bangkok regularly over the past few years. No, its not for the shopping, culinary or carnal delights, but for music. Since 2016, Bangkok has been a destination of mine for classical music. Should that even be a surprise? 

It was my friend Howard “Buzz” Singer, retired American attorney, who first planted the idea of visiting Thailand for musical reasons. August 2016 was my first time, and it was to see brilliant young Thai pianist Poom Prommachart perform Brahms’ Second Piano Concerto with the Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra (TPO). It was an eye and ear-opening experience, not to mention the 35 kilometers one has to travel from Sukhumvit to Salaya, almost an hour by car and even longer via public transport. These days one can easily get to Bang Wa via MRT and then catch the Salaya Express bus (30 bahts one way) to Mahidol University where TPO is based. 

TPO performs at the magnificent Prince Mahidol Hall, which seats 2000 (bigger than Esplanade!) and has near-perfect acoustics and sightlines. Over the years, I have caught the London Symphony and BBC Symphony at this venue (with ticket prices far less than in Singapore) besides the TPO’s excellent programmes. From the TPO under its Music Director Alfonso Scarano and various guest conductors, I have heard Mahler’s Third Symphony, Schoenberg’s Pelleas und Melisande, Shostakovich’s Tenth Symphony, Rachmaninov’s Third Symphony and Sibelius Second Symphony, all displaying the orchestra’s considerable prowess. Formed in 2005, TPO is not at the level of the Singapore Symphony yet, but its progress and ambition over the years has been most impressive. 

The foyer of Prince Mahidol Hall
simply glitters.

This latest concert on 10 August 2024 had me scrambling to make flight and hotel bookings for the National Day long weekend as TPO’s programme was not one readily available at home. One will not get to hear jazz legend Chick Corea’s Trombone Concerto, performed by no less than New York Philharmonic principal Joseph Alessi, or Mahler’s elusive Seventh Symphony conducted by young Singaporean hotshot Kahchun Wong, now the chief conductor of Manchester’s Halle Orchestra. Now, whoever thought even that was possible? With a concert ticket at 700 bahts (S$28) for very decent stall seats, this was just a steal. 

TPO pre-concert talk, with
tenor horn and mandolin players in attendance.

Never had I also encountered so many young people toting trombone cases and secondary school students at the single concert. They far outnumbered the middle-aged farang male and or upper middle-class families on a Saturday outing, usually the most common demographic. They were impeccably behaved and respectful, and totally enthusiastic in response to the performers and the music played. There was almost a carnival-like atmosphere in the hall’s starlight illuminated foyer where an interactive pre-concert talk was taking place. 

What of the music? De rigeuer is a performance of the King’s Anthem for which everybody stood up for (lese majeste rules apply in case one did not comply). The Corea work was mostly easy listening, with the ace in Alessi playing extended solos as if he were improvising, while the orchestra being most discreet in its partnership. A breathtaking virtuoso show was the least to be expected, which extended to a substantial jazzy encore accompanied by the TPO’s pianist. 

The Mahler symphony was why we came, and we were not disappointed. The opening tenor horn solo was excellent, setting the mood for the march-like first movement which was kept on tight leash under conductor Wong’s control. The pace was not allowed to lag. The two Nachtmusik movements provided moments of respite, and these were coloured by the gentle clangour of cowbells and the mandolin’s ear-catching tinkle. These were nicely phrased, but best of all was the central Scherzo which was vehemence personified. Was it meant to be vitriolic, demonic or a motley combination of most sinister traits? 

This strangest of Mahler movements was perfectly judged, and one cannot have hoped for a more trenchant reading. The blustery finale was probably the most problematic of five movements, sounding overlong with a confusion of ideas. However, Wong still managed to keep a lid on things that would otherwise boil over, making for a somewhat conflicted but generally happy end. The audience response was vociferous, with each soloist in the orchestra (especially the brass) recognised with the loudest of cheers. 

This listener was more than satisfied with the outcome, and the concert well worth the effort of a long trek. As for my long-time friend Buzz, I could only thank him for his “introduction” to the TPO and say, “we wish you were here with us in BKK”! Simply put, Thailand Philharmonic concerts are Bangkok’s best kept secret, but soon it should no longer be. 

Do check-out the orchestra’s website for its concert season and further details: Home Page - Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra 

Post concert saw a meet-and-greet with Alessi and the man Kahchun himself, who was genuinely pleased to see Singaporeans come all this way for music. We were not the only ones. We missed the last bus ride back to Bang Wa but that was a small glitch in the grand scheme of things. So it was a Grab ride (480 bahts) to Siam Square for a well-deserved dinner. Patting oneself on the back is what people do when they go on vacation and get to tell the whole world about it, and this was little different.

Singaporeans in BKK:
with bass trombonist Jasper Tan
& bassoonist Emerald Chee.

Have music, will travel